![]() ![]() not airbag, ABS or other electronic modules). This is a very cost effective unit but there are a couple of things to be aware of: ![]() I used a Foxwell NT200 diagnostic scan tool. In my case, everything was fine.Īt this point I knew I needed to reach for a code reader. I suggest you do the same if this happens to you. When the light first came on I stopped as soon as I could to check for obvious signs (or smells) of woe under the bonnet and under the car. Having fixed the problem, I now appreciate there was a slight hesitation when starting to accelerate from idle. It wasn’t driving quite as it should, but also wasn’t quite bad enough or annoying enough to make me notice. Now I’ve fixed it, I realise the Honda had been giving me subtle clues that something wasn’t right for some time before the light came on. Obvious and less obvious clues something was wrongĬlearly the obvious clue was when the engine management light came on. This engine is found in lots of other Hondas (Accord, Civic, Stream Stepwgn), so hopefully this information will be useful for lots of people. The car in question here is a 2004 Honda CR-V with the 2 litre K20A petrol engine. In this post I’m going to describe how I worked out what was causing the light to be on, what had gone wrong (knock sensor) and how I fixed it (replaced the sensor). You can probably guess what happened next. Then it went off…then it came back on again…then it went off again. The check engine light / engine management light on my Honda CR-V came on recently. ![]()
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December 2022
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